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Builders Corner / Build Threads / Re: Wood/Glass bootlegger project
« Last post by patternpilot1 on September 04, 2014, 05:47:56 PM »
Hi All,

Sorry for the delay !

Okay lets build -  In the kit you got Dave Brown carbon fiber  1/2inch x 5.5 feet long.  take the carbon and split the with down to 1/4 inch and then cut the length in half. This will give you 4 pieces of carbon. This will get laminated between the foam and balsa skin on top and bottom of wings at the high point or close to that on the airfoil. 

Lay out your fixed gear blocks or retract plates as on plans and epoxy into place and let dry, always keeping core in shuck to keep from twisting

Next I have been asked a lot how do I make my sheeting, I learned from Dennis Hunt -

Select your 1/16 x 3 x 36 wood and true up the edges, next use magic 1/2 inch tape (like for wrapping gifts)  I make them about a inch long and then place them every 4-5 inches along the joint.

After that is done use minwax sanding sealer on the side going to foam and let dry.  cut to size of wing with about 1/2 to 3/4 inch over hang.

next we use Elmers Glue-All Max, this glue is super strong and will also force it's way into the space between the foam beads.

spread a bead of glue on the wood and use a squeegee to spread it out and it should only be damp on the wood surface, the sanding sealer will keep it from soaking into to wood adding weight.

Next where the carbon is going but a bead of glue down and then place carbon on top of bead and then add another bead over carbon and lightly squeegee this will look wetter than the rest of the wood.  Next mist the foam core with water from spray bottle, water activated the Elmers glue and place wood on to the core,  I usally place tape over the retract plate or gear block to keep the glue from expanding into those area's.

Repeat this process for the other side of wing and we vac bag are stuff so it goes into bag for 3-5 hours and then we pull out trim and face LE & TE. 

The stab is done the same way except for the carbon.

more in a bit, have to go put a gel coat in a mold.
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Photo's and videos / Kaos electric conversion: Flight video
« Last post by Take2flight on September 04, 2014, 11:55:58 AM »
Klarity is my code name for this electric Kaos, seen flying in this video.
(Hi-res...watch in full screen!)

Enjoy,
Take2flight

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IGqw6LrO3k&feature=youtu.be
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Aircraft General / Paul Clements Skynight-6
« Last post by Sam Wragg on August 26, 2014, 08:01:25 AM »
Fellow enthusiasts.

At this years UK Bmfa British Nationals event they hold a swap-meet over the weekend where fellow modelers can offload their unwanted items, I came across an old pattern ship kit called 'Skynight-6' manufactured by Kitty Hawk models.

I'm a member of the UKCAA(classic pattern) and couldn't resist buying this model at a very reasonable price indeed as it's in perfect condition.

Any information on this model would be most welcome

Sam



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Electric powered Vintage planes / Re: Kaos electric conversion: Flight video
« Last post by patternpilot1 on August 25, 2014, 12:26:37 PM »
very cool... nice job.
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Electric powered Vintage planes / Kaos electric conversion: Flight video
« Last post by Take2flight on August 23, 2014, 06:15:57 PM »
Flying video of my electric conversion of a Kaos.

Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IGqw6LrO3k&feature=youtu.be
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Builders Corner / Build Threads / Wood/Glass bootlegger project
« Last post by patternpilot1 on August 18, 2014, 02:29:30 PM »
I will be starting to add more info shortly.

One item the current plans do not have the dihedral listed for the wing.   

You'll want 1.5 under each tip ONLY if you're using anhedral stabs.  The extra dihedral will balance the adverse roll coupling the anhedral stabs will induce.

USE 3/4 INCH UNDER TIP OR TOTAL 1.5 FOR FLAT STAB!
more soon.

Scott
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Engine Clinic / YS .61s LS
« Last post by hab on August 07, 2014, 08:25:58 AM »
Hi guys. New to this forum and first time posting here, but I could use a little help if anyone may have experience with a YS .61 LS ( side exhaust) and have encountered this problem. Figured this might be the best place to ask for a little advice.

I have a question concerning it's pressure build up and it's plunger. I recently purchased gaskets, O-rings, diaphragms, plungers and springs from YS Yamada ( Japan) for a YS .61 LS.
 
 They seem to be the only one that still carries vintage 2 stroke parts for the YS, in limitation, but they do carry parts. I have had good luck dealing with YS Yamada / Naohisa Yamada, as gaining parts/ gaskets for a YS .45 I recently went through.

 Question is this. Upon replacing the plunger, diaphragm and  spring in the regulator housing, ... {they- plunger(s) - I ordered 2 kits}, came in a plastic wrapper / sleeve with a part# of
 R-6138 affixed / stickered to the cellophane/ plastic bag. They did not come in the typical red and whit YS package. In the exploded view of a parts breakdown which I have, it shows a part # of YS1145 for the plunger. I'm assuming this new # supersedes and replaces the old part #.

 Hard to tell from the exploded view if it's the same as R-6138, but from what I can tell, it looks as if it's the same.
I'm sure those who know how this plunger works and seats within the regulator housing and are familiar with the YS .61 LS, know it has a small silicone end that seats on the end of the plunger, with a small diameter hole to locate itself on the end of the plunger.  The regulator spring seats itself , rides upon that, on opposite side , under the regulator screw setting low end- fuel mix. 

 Question is this, setting the regulator screw flush with the regulator housing as a starting point, it seems as though it closes off incoming fuel delivery under the spring pressure ( feeding up to the venturi / carb) upon rotating the prop a few times. That small silicone end, is cone shaped on the seat end and it shuts off fuel delivery and will not pressurize the feed line, until it's removed from the fuel delivery side - forward nipple. Then it pressurizes fine and pumps into a small cup with no problem.  Replace the line, will not pressurize.

 Yes, the regulator gasket and venturi gasket are fine and line up with the matched ports that feed to the venturi exactly. I've been going through this over and over (several times now), and they are matched correctly.
 I have even opened up the small holes a little with an x-acto knife on the gasket to make sure they're not blocking off the feed orifices. And both the regulator housing and venturi / carb have been cleaned and blown out.

 What I did do, was crack the two regulator screws open a touch while rotating the prop, and wallah, it fed fuel up. All this did though, was allow the line to be pressurized because of not having any restriction.

 Just wondering if anybody else on here has had or rebuilt a 2stroke YS and has encountered this very same problem that maybe able shed some light on the subject, perhaps on something I might be over looking or seeing. My thought is that the silicone ends, and possibly the plunger itself -  brass piece ( it's length) are incorrect for the .61 and the regulator housing.
The original, one I replaced, ( which may have been replaced before I got my hands on this ... unsure of that) .... is the same length.  I've misplaced - dropped, the original silicone end so I can't compare that. 

I'm stumped and could use a little help if anyone may know of this problem.

 Thanks Guys - Ken


* Edit to this post .. Problem solved.  After completely tearing it down again and checking the crank and case for any obstruction / damage at the small notch that pressurizes the regulator / diaphragm, I had to replace the rear case gasket. The last gasket involved besides the reg. and carb / venturi gaskets, which turned out to be the problem. Learn from mistakes I guess. Never went that far as to pulling the crank first time around and having to replace the case gasket.  Relied on it's condition as it being good. Not the case. Bottom line, for those reading this it would be wise doing "all" gaskets pertaining to a YS, and not assuming a gasket may be good because of it's condition. Paper gaskets dry out over time and lose their seating / sealing properties. They're all critical in a YS.  This one, apparently never had fuel run through it till now.   So far, three tanks of Omega 15% with an O.S #8, run through it for the initial bench break in spinning a 12/9 /  APC with a Hatori Pipe.   
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Aircraft General / Ed Kazmirski Taurus wing load
« Last post by mgmatus48 on August 06, 2014, 09:47:06 PM »
On classic pattern planes what is an acceptable wing loading?  I am having trouble with my Home and Hobby solution Taurus kit.  I've had to use almost a pound of weight to get the CG right.  Not good.  My wing load is around 26 oz per sq inch. 
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Builders Corner / Build Threads / Ed Kazmirski Taurus Center of Gravity
« Last post by mgmatus48 on July 22, 2014, 11:36:56 AM »
I need some help.  I built a Home and Hobby solution Ed Kazmirski Taurus kit used ambroid glue, sig koverall, primer and sig nitrate dope for finishing.  It needs 14 to 16 oz in the nose to get the CG correct.  This doesn't seem right.  Can anyone give me some ideas on what I did wrong?  Thanks
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Senior Pattern Association / Re: modern engines in Classic pattern
« Last post by patternpilot1 on July 19, 2014, 09:11:02 PM »
do you have a website for the engine?
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http://www.wingswestrc.com/